Friday, January 11, 2013

Siguriya

We had an early start, so we were up at 6:30, had breakfast, and were packed, ready to leave by 7:30. Daniel and Sarat didn't arrive until about 8:20, blaming roadworks for the delay. We packed our gear in and headed for the fish market. Negombo has the largest fishing fleet in Sri Lanka. Some of the boats go out each day, but many are the trawlers that stay out for around 3 weeks before coming in to unload their catch. Much of the action had happened earlier, but there were still fishermen selling trays of prawns and other smaller fish. Some of the larger fish were sold in sections, and there were piles of sharks that were waiting to be loaded into trucks to be sent to Japan. They had already had the head and fins cut off.
Then we headed to a large Buddhist temple and had a look inside at the magnificent statues and paintings
We had lunch at Kurunagala, which was once an ancient capital and has lots of rocky outcrops around the city. The rocks all have names like Lion Rock, Elephant Rock etc. We continued after lunch towards Siguriya. We arrived at the Eden Garden Hotel at around 3 pm. and were greeted with a nice cold drink each. We dropped our bags in our rooms and then went for a short drive to Habarana for an elephant ride around a large lagoon. The ride went for approximately an hour. Bridget and Daniel took turns to ride on the elephants neck, while the rest of us were in a metal box like frame strapped to it's back. Along the path we purchased bananas to feed it, and as we approached the halfway, turnaround point, the elephant went into the lagoon, dipped it's trunk in the water and sprayed it back at us. Bridget was on the neck at the time, so she got a bit wet. After the ride we went and fed another elephant some bananas. This time they actually placed them on the elephant's tongue. Quite an experience. Tomorrow we go to climb over 1000 steps to the top of Siguriya, which is on the 2000 Rps note.

Some observations since we have been here:
- the roads are better
- drivers actually use the lanes on the road, and obey traffic lights
- there are many more free standing homes
- there is no rubbish

We left at around 9:30 to go to Siguriya Rock. It was raining slightly, but we thought that this would be good to keep us cooler as we climbed the over 1200 steps to the top. Being one of Sri Lanka's World Heritage sites, it was US$30 per person to enter the site. The first thing we did was to go to the museum. The entry cost included entry to the Museum, Fresco Gallery, and the Mirror Wall. There was a palace on top of the rock, and it amazing to think that this was all built in the 4th century. The steps and climbing were very tiring, and Paula had said that she would only go as far as she could. We ended up having people who offered to help you to the top, and with assistance and encouragement she did make it. Unfortunately it was cloudy with light drizzle so the view from the top was not great.

Negombo

I got up and went for a walk along the beach before breakfast. It is a nice long sandy beach with fishing boats and catamarans. After a buffet breakfast, I went for a quick swim, while Paula and Daniel arranged to get new glasses from an optician selling glasses along the beach. He took their glasses to get the prescription, and will then go and make the new ones. They got their glasses about 6 hours later. When we were down at the beach, we noticed that the hotel had a "fresh fish market", where we could choose the fish and pay by the 100g, and they would cook it for you. We bought 500g of prawns and 500g of Thalapath, which was similar to tuna. As a bonus they offered 2 bottles of beer with 500g of fish, so we got our 4 beers, fries, and griiled fish and prawns and sat at tables set up on the sand under the palm trees. Every time we went near the beach someone would try to sell you something. Besides the optician on the beach, Paula and Daniel both bought other things. We all went for a swim in the pool, and watched the sun set over the beach. We enjoyed the lunch, but thought that we should double the amount for dinner, which we had at the restaurant.

Arriving in Sri Lanka

Arrived a bit early

Greeted by Daniel who was holding up a sign and gave each of us a single white rose. As we were wheeling our bags out to the car, we met a family from Wantirna South. The father is the School Council President at Wantirna South Primary School. I know Cheryl, Assistant Principal, and Kerrie, an ITF Exchange teacher to Canda in 2009, who also worked there. The car is actually an airconditioned 12 seat van. Daniel introduced Sarat, the driver who will be with us for the 21 days. We drove to Negombo, to The Golden Star Beach Hotel, and were greeted with cold juice and shown to our rooms. This is a really nice hotel which has a swimming pool, and is right on the beach.

Delhi

We organised to get some tea and toast at the hotel at 5:15 am because we had a train to Delhi which was supposed to leave at 6:00 am, but left two hours late. We ended up getting in to the station in Delhi about two and a half hours late.

Main Bazaar

Organic Bread Bakery

Connaught Place

India Gate

Metro to the pictures

Metro to the Red Fort

Ranjghat - Ghandi Memorial - Nehru's house, Indira Ghandi Memorial, Ranjit Ghandi Memorial and then the Mahatma Ghandi Memorial

Male and female -

Security inspections - theatres, metro stations, railway stations

Red Fort again

Taxis to the airport

last on the plane, final call

Haridwar

The train was only about half an hour late arriving in Haridwar. We got auto-rickshaws to the hotel which is right in the middle of town. We organised to leave our bags, had a cup of tea, and looked for somewhere to eat breakfast. Haridwar is in the foothills og the Himalayas and the Ganges flows through town. We went for a walk along the main street, which was a bit wder than some of the towns we have been in. There was room for 2 auto-rickshaws to pass on opposite sides of the road and pedestrians to walk on both sides, as well as the street vendors. The river was just a couple of blocks off this street through the old shopping bazaar like shops. When we got to the river we could see the ghats, as well as a concrete man-made island accessed by bridges that had steps on both sides. The steps had a pole and chain fence in the water so that people could stand, or dip in the fast flowing water and still be able to hold on to something so that they didn't get washed away. There were men, women, and some children completely dipping in the water, or at least standing in the water and bucketing water over themselves. Others were buying empty bottles and filling them, so that they could take home some water from the sacred river.

We woke on the next day to find that there was a fog, but this soon began to lift to become a nice clear sky, so we decided to take the cable car up the nearby hill to the Mandi Devi Temple. There were good views of the city and the river, and it showed that there was a dam just upriver from the city. At the dam there were two out lets for the river. There was a diversion which the city was built on, and the main river which was further away.

We organised to do a safari to Ranjaji National Park, which was across the other side of the Ganga. We organised to get a car to take us to the park where we hadn't yet booked a jeep, so we had to arrange entry to the park, and get a jeep with a guide to take us through for the 2 - 3 hour safari. During the drive we saw elephants in the distance, monkeys, peacocks, Chittal and Samba deer, and wild pigs.

After the safari we walked along the banks of the river to see thousands of people moving towards the bathing area. Everyone was being ushered to sit down on the steps and wit as the sun went down for the nightly blessing of the river. People were buying offerings to give to the river. There were many offerings of small boats made from palm leaves with flowers and burning candles.

Amritsar

Up early to get the train to Delhi, and then the connection to Amritsar. We booked a large taxi to get us to the station for a 6: am train, only to find out that the train left at 5:00 am. When the printer printed the booking there was an ink problem on, and near, the train departure time. I had misread the time. I went out to the area where the taxis and auto rickshaws were and asked about getting a large taxi to Delhi. After some discussions and phone calls, I managed to get a taxi, including road taxes, for 8000 Rps. which is about A$150. Weleft Jaipur at about 7:30 am, and we were worried about getting
the connection in Delhi. If we were on the early train there was 1 houur and 10 minutes between trains. We left Jaipur 2 hours and 30 minutes later. The taxi we were in belonged to one of the hotels and the driver only spoke Hindi. With bags on the roof and me sitting in the back with other bags we raced along the road to Delhi, sometimes even reaching 90 km/hour. There were lots of bumps and sidetracks as they are trying to improve and widen the road. With one quick stop for the driver to have a break, and us to get some water, something to eat, and use the toilet. As we approached Delhi there was lots more industry and traffic. When I showed the taxi guys in Jaipur the booking for the next train, they said we needed to head for New Delhi station. We arrived at about the same time as the train from Jaipur, so we had made very good time. It wasn't easy to find the information about train platforms, so I went to the Information Office, only to be told that "It goes from Old Delhi Station, and you had better get a fast rickshaw." We raced outside and found a large rickshaw, threw our bags in the back and on the roof, and said that we needed to get to the other station - "Quick". I was crammed in the front seat, in between Daniel and the driver. It was very uncomfortable as the driver tried to change gears, and I found myself half leaning into the back seat so he could grab the gear handle.

Large taxi to the area near the hotel, and then we had to get an auto rickshaw and Paula went on a pedal rickshaw to the hotel which is virtually across the road from the Golden Temple complex.

Rooms

Lunch
Christmas tree and decorations
Dinner in the hotel

Went to the Golden Temple, walked around the shops and market areas
Back to the hotel for a shower and then went to Crystal's for a late lunch

Christmas Day - went for breakfast and then back to the hotel for fun presents and then to Crystal for Christmas lunch. We had made arrangemants to meet a driver at our hotel to take us to the India/Pakistan border to watch the Retreat Ceremony which happens every day, just before sunset, and has occurred every day since 1959.
When we got back we watched Christmas movies on the TV and had a few drinks in our room.

Boxing Day we got up and made sure that our bags were packed because we were checking out of the hotel at midday. We wanted to find somewhere to leave our bags for the day, as our train didn't leave until 22:15. The people at the hotel said that we could store them there, so we decided to have something to eat at the Golden Tulip, a hotel on the other side of town. It was quite a nice hotel and we were the only people in the restaurant for quite a while. We were all full when we left and decided to walk to get some exercise and walk off some of the calories. We were walking past a school just as all the kids were being let out and the auto-rickshaws and minibuses were picking them up. We always get looked at and many of the kids said hello. We have made a habit of asking at restaurants

Jaipur

Train from Agra to Jaipur was 2 hours late in leaving, which meant that we anded up getting in to Jaipur at 2:00 am,

She-males and the sleeping berths

We made arrangements with the hotel to pick us up at the station and transported us and our bags in two auto rickshaws.

Breakfast at the hotel, picked up by Abdul and another driver out the front at 10:15 am, and we went through the Pink City to the Amber Fort. There were actually 3 forts, and they were totally surrounded by "The Great Wall of Jaipur", a 15 kilometer wall that was constantly manned by over 1000 soldiers.

On the way back into town we stopped at the Water Palace

Lunch

Mughal markets - shops for tourists where the driver gets some commission, or benefit - carpet and fabric,